The ceiling is insulated with PIR plates, as explained in Roof, insulation, installing vent, fan and solar.

The top of the PIR boards are covered with self-adhesive Armaflex sheets (9mm thick).
With this, the insulation was equal in thickness to the support beams, and the wooden timber which I had previously installed. The Armaflex was already black, the wooden timer and everything else have been spraypainted black to make a rather solid black background.

On top of this, there will be a layer of black fabric. I found a cheap black fabric (2.50 eur / m). This is slightly stretchable, perfect for my purpose. Since this is rather thin, white spots might be seen through the fabric, thats why I made the ceiling black and spraypainted where needed.

Once cut to size, I used thumbtacks to temporary fix the fabric in place.

The final cladding will be made from slats of beech wood, just as the countertops and table. Also painted in the same color. The slats were 4.5cm (1 3/4″) width and 1cm (3/8″) thick, I used a wood planer to remove 4mm and make them 6mm (1/4″) thick (Save weight, gain usuable height).
After that, I’ve sanded them down, and painted them with dark varnish.

Once the slats were finished, I started installing them to the ceiling. The center slat also contained the lights, so I had to cut the appropriate holes first. Once confirmed everything was fine, I nailed them to the wood structure of the ceiling (About each 25cm / 10″), using a pneumatic stapler (which only created very small holes, barely visible).

I used some leftover wood of 12mm (1/2″) as seperator between the slats, exposing the fabric. Used this as spacer for equal with along the slats, nailed them and went to the next one. The fabric gives it a nice smooth backdrop. And once more slats are installed, I removed the thumbtacks, and the fabric is hold into place by the slats.

4 Replies to “Ceiling”

  1. Very Awesome! Especially some great electrical info. Where did you connect your d+ 12 volt input for your DC to DC Renogy 40 amp charger? Also that unit that you got for regulating voltage for led lights, how was that installed? Ali Express ( take 2 months to get here) but like to get it. Your cabinets are very nice. Great job!
    Tom from following walkers world.

    1. I didn’t connect the D+ yet, since I’m still in the building process. I hope to be able to find a 12V line somewhere which is only providing power when the engine (alternator) is working. If I can’t find it, I will connect it to a 12V circuit which is only active when the key is in ignition. You can get D+ simulators which actually ‘see’ if the alternator is running, but I don’t see any reason to get these (Only advantage will be you won’t drain the starter battery when the key is in ignition, but the engine is not running).
      The regulator is https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/4000300644303.html , the 10A version. I have 1 fused circuit (15A) which directly goes into this regulator. The output is powering all lights, I did run a 14AWG cable to the back, which seperates into multiple 16AWG cables to the various lights. (I did use 14/16AWG, not since the current requires it, but since it’s providing slightly less voltage drop due to the length of the cables)

    1. Hello,
      I used the Rambo Pantserlak Puur Palissander 0773 (DIY/consumer brand sold in DIY stores in the Netherlands. I used 3 layers (Each layer darkens it more)

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